Latgale (in Latgalian: – Latgola) is one of the regions of Latvia, whose territory today borders the Vidzeme region in the north and northeast. It is a region with a very rich and diverse culture. Shaped by the mutual influence of the many nationalities and ethnic groups that have lived here for centuries. Diversity can also be enjoyed in the flavours of Latgale by visiting local cafes, restaurants and farms, where both traditional Latgale dishes and new and unusual flavour combinations can be discovered. In addition, Latgalians are known not only for what they do, but also for how they welcome their guests. Their hospitality permeates every experience that goes well beyond the flavours alone. What to enjoy and where to look for it? We have prepared a review of places that we recommend to be included in a journey of tastes in Latgale.
Home restaurant “Dzīles”
When travelling, we often want to know how the locals live. We are also keen on trying the flavours directly from local cuisine. In Latgale, it is possible in the home restaurant “Dzīles”. It is a place where every meal combines not only the taste of home food, but also the cooking experience, the story of Latgale, its people and values. The owners of “Dzīles” bakery in Malnava are true connoisseurs of rye – they not only serve bread, but also other rye flour products. For example, the hostess’s speciality dessert is rye bread biscuit roulette with a seasonal filling. Moreover, the owners of the bakery are ready to tell anyone who’s willing to listen about the origin, preparation, recipes and traditions of bread.
Aglona bread museum
Bread is the cornerstone of every culture. It is possible to discover the traditional rye bread and how it is made in the Latgalian tradition at Aglona Bread Museum. Its owner, Vija Kudiņa, has created a bread museum in Aglona, where visitors can learn about the bread-making process, taste freshly baked bread or try their hand at baking it. A visit to the museum is a journey through time, where the hostess welcomes visitors, dressed in the traditional folk costume of the region, and speaks in the Latgalian tongue with those who wish to hear it, even sometimes singing a folk song. In the museum, it is not only possible to taste bread made according to the methods of the ancestors, but also to taste various Latgalian dishes: špeks, zuoļu čajs ar madu, supeņa, guļbeitsi ar zūsteiti voi kilbasu, kļockas, sipesnīks, šmakavceņš.
Restaurant “Pie īstās latvju saimnieces”
Part of the flavour is what comes from the environment. Lielborne manor is a royal environment for enjoying the flavours of Latgale. There is a restaurant “Pie īstas latvju saimnices” at the manor, which has been a family restaurant from the very beginning. Its owners not only see to it that the guests leave the place with full stomachs, but also gladly share stories about the manor and Latgale. The restaurant’s menu is variable and seasonal; it primarily uses the produce grown on the farm or in the neighbouring farms.
Restaurant “Silenes terases”
For those looking for the modern tastes of Latgale, we recommend visiting the restaurant “Silenes terases”, which is part of the recreation complex “Silene SPA & Resort”. The restaurant has an exquisite menu of food and drinks. And its location alone is worth a visit: the terraces surrounded by nature offer a spectacular view of the lake, which makes a family lunch or a romantic dinner even more wonderful.
“Ausmeņa kebabs”
For those looking for more modern and worldly tastes, we recommend stopping in Rēzekne and visiting “Ausmeņa kebabs”. This is the original Ausmeņa kebab shop, which has successfully branched out in several places in Riga as well. “Ausmeņa kebabs” was founded in 2013, and in these years has gained cult status as a central meeting place for local hip-hop representatives and other enthusiasts of alternative cultures. The kebab place often hosts various concerts and events, so if you want to taste not only everything on the menu, but also the culture, we recommend that you follow “Ausmeņa kebabs” on social networks.
Coffee roastery “KUUP”
Next to “Ausmeņa kebabs” you can enjoy something completely different, but also worth a visit. Coffee gives energy to any journey, especially a journey of taste. Although coffee beans grow far from Latvia, you can experience Latgale through a cup of coffee as well. The coffee roastery “KUUP” is a family business that is particularly proud of Latgale, its culture, language and special temperament, which only the Latgalians have. And they have added it all to coffee, both in the roasting process and the end product, as well as in the way they welcome guests. The specialised coffee roastery is located in Rēzekne, where you can buy coffee, take part in tasting and take a leisurely look at how the family business is developing.
“Latgolys šmakovkys dedzinātava”
If you have a desire for something stronger than coffee, it’s time for the traditional strong alcoholic drink of Latgale – šmakovka. It is made from grains, usually barley or rye, or a mixture of these. Traditionally, it is distilled at home using hand-made equipment, but “Latgolys šmakovkys dedzinātava” is taking the process much more seriously. The hosts of the distillery invite guests to spend time learning the secrets of šmakovka, taste the drink, eat warm pies and have fun doing various activities.
Cukurella” for lovers of sweets
“Cukurella” is a place where homemade sweets are made – apple puree marshmallows, pastilles, almond cookies, meringue cookies, eclairs and pop cakes. Homemade ice cream is also made during the summer. In the artisan workshop “Cukurella” you can buy various treats and participate in sweet tastings. Please note that tastings must be booked by contacting the hosts.
Forest goods at the environmental education and culture centre “Ķepa”
One of the ways to enjoy the flavours of the region is to understand what the nature here is offering. The employees of the environmental education and culture centre “Ķepa” have ensured that every visitor can enjoy specially prepared seasonal forest goods. Tastings must be booked in advance by contacting the centre. Here you can get to know not only forest produce, but also local animals and nature.
Country restaurant “Klajumi”
The horse stable “Klajumi” is located in Daugava Nature Park, and it is a secluded place where you can spend time alone in nature and with horses. It is also a place where you can get to know the flavours of Latgale better. By booking in advance, visitors can enjoy Latgale culinary heritage dishes from natural, self-grown products, which are served in black pots in a romantic country restaurant by the fireplace with a picturesque view from the window.
Farm “Kotiņi”
Near Balvi, there is a farm “Kotiņi”, run by passionate hosts. Their love for what they grow has developed not only into sales, but also into the creation of new products. These can be bought and tasted when visiting the farm. What can you taste at the farm? Pearl barley (small, medium and large), barley, groats, shelled beans, shelled peas, grey peas, bean-pea-rye-spelt-wheat-buckwheat flour, pancake mixes, oat groats, mustard, wheat bran, cold pressed oil (rapeseed, hemp and linseed). Moreover, guests can go on a tour where they can see how the farm began, the course of its development and growth, processing methods and see the Rekova mill.
Hemp farm “Obelisk farm”
“Obelisk Farm” is a small family farm producing healthy hemp food and cultivating hemp. Hemp is a versatile plant and travellers can learn here a lot about hemp, taste different hemp products, learn how to make hemp paper or insulate a house with hemp. “Obelisk Farm” is an organic farm that is happy to share its knowledge about how to ensure more soil and nature friendly farming.
If you are planning a longer trip to Latgale and are interested in other sights, we have prepared ten ideas for touring Latgale.
